28-29-30 September 2014 – Millstream Chichester National Park – Fine Sunny Clear Skies

After our big day out in Tom Price and drive up, we arrived late around 5pm.  This was a good for setting up in the cooler part of the day. We took the first camp spot (with afternoon shade) we found at the Miliyanha Camp Ground.. that turned out to be a good choice, as we had vans coming in as we parked and we would have missed out if we had done the loop.

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Millstream was previously a station and added to Chichester to form the current park.  The homestead built in 1920 is the information centre and there is a walk with name plates of the various areas of the original homestead grounds.   What a great station house, there is a 12 foot verandah all the way around which has then been extended another 12 foot making it 24 feet outdoor under cover.   The inside is similar to other station houses of the time with cross ventilation through out.  Two rooms either end with a large room right across the middle.  Everywhere double doors opening onto the verandah. You can also tune into FM88 for recollections from the last owners who left in 1964.

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 The water is coming from a aquifer (under ground reserve estimated to hold 1700 million cubic metres of water).  We thought it was the trains that we could hear, but a drive along Snappy Gum Drive, put a end to that theory.  There is a pumping station transferring the water to supply Karratha, Dampier, Pt Samson & Cossack with water.  These towns are also supplied from Harding Dam. They monitor the levels here at the oasis to ensure that the level does not change here due to the amount of water being taken.  It would greatly change the life balance here if that happened.  When Millstream was a station, they built irrigation channels which are quite narrow and now overgrown.  The channels watered the fruit & vegetables and crops that they grew.  They even had a bath house above one of the channels.  We saw one of these at Cradle Mountain in Tassie.

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The water is crystal clear.  There is a story board saying that the kids used to swim in this pool and they had a jetty and metal punt to row around in.  Their grandmother planted the water lilies which took over their swimming hole and they had to pull them out to clear a swimming space.  The water lilies now rule the pond.  There are heaps of fish, it’s a beautiful aquarium.  I would love to snorkel in there, but you know that’s not allowed of course.

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There are three types of palms here – the introduced Date Palms and Cotton Palms and the Millstream Palm, a left over from millions of years ago when it was sub-tropical here. 

 

 

 

 

The Kitchen

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The station kitchen, separate from the main house. It would be one big oven in summer though, there was no insulation or enough ventilation to keep it cool. The camp kitchen is in a replica design.

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I think that the kitchen design is quite unusual and there is quite a lot of workmanship involved. The curved roof was a bit ambitious for that era.  Apparently they thought the guy building it was going too slow, and that ended in a argument and he up and left midway through.  Hmmm, curved roof, argument, storming out, that scenario was repeated at the Opera House.

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Love the steel gates, put them up once, apparently the white ants are a bit of a problem here.

 

 

 

 

28th September - Sunday

Drive along Snappy Gum Drive, Palm Pool and Deep Reach Swimming Hole and Cliff Lookout Walk.

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Glen having a “refreshing” dip in Deep Reach swimming hole. The fish love the non slip step area into the swimming hole.  They provide non slip decking, steps and a handrail to the water edge.  The water is deep right up to the edge. There are plenty of shaded BBQ tables and gas BBQ’s to use.

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The cliff top viewing area.

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The cliff edge is just past the spinifex to the left.    View of Hamersley Range behind our car.

Monday 29th September

This morning we did the Warrungunha Trail trail for 5 kilometres.  It leads to the Cliff Lookout which we had viewed yesterday, so we only did the base walk and didn’t climb to the top of the cliff for the lookout.

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There is a forest of paperbark trees here and they are some of the largest we have ever seen.  There were only few this size  at Karijini.  Below them is a wetland type reed.

 

 

 

 

 

We startled a couple of Euro’s on the walk.  They have to jump very high through the long grass.  I am not sure where they fit in between kangaroo’s and Wallabies.

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The Euro is in this photo, you just have to find him.

 

 

 

 

 

On the walk, we saw some northern parrots, variegated fairy wrens, and a new one to tick off.  Star Finch.  I was hoping to see these finches as they are listed on the park’s bird list so we had a good chance of seeing some.  They were not difficult to spot with their bright red heads.

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A photo of a blue winged kookaburra.  Their beak appears much bigger than the laughing kookaburra.  This one looks quite young and doesn’t have full colour.

 

 

 

Tuesday 30th September – Warm 37.5c (in the shade) fine sunny – cool breezes

We left early to drive to the Chichester Ranges as we won’t be taking this road to Roebourne tomorrow.

This is a wonderful scenic drive through the range and spinifex plains.  It was well worth taking the time to do it.

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After we crossed the railway tracks and headed up a rise, this panorama opened out.  We beat the train again, I would estimate that it was one kilometre long.  We saw the train when we turned onto the road north and the train tracks veered to the east.  He has less distance to travel to the crossing than us, as we had to do a curve.  When we crossed we could not see the train, but he came along while we were taking photos.

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This is Mount Herbert, the walk is 600 metre loop.  I had wanted to walk some of the camel trail and decided to do the walk to McKenzie Spring which was 4.5km 2.5 hr return – Class 3.  This follows the camel trail that the original cameleers took.  McKenzie Spring was where they watered the camels on the trail.

 

 

 

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Looking back to Mt Herbert and our car in the car park.  We were about half way to McKenzie Spring.  Distance markers would be helpful.

 

 

 

 

 

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Some of the path is in one of the creek beds with small water worn stone. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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This lizard came out to say Hi, dashed out and posed, and let me get very close, looking at us all the time.  They always amaze me by their lack of fear and curiosity.

 

 

 

 

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Ah, more signs we must be on the right track.  Just follow the little camel arrows.

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There were several water holes as well as the spring which was overgrown with rushes leaving a small area of shallow water. We surprised Spinifex Pigeons when we arrived and saw Painted Finches also using the water hole.  They say that Spinifex Pigeons are never far from water and it’s true.  It’s handy to know if you ever got yourself lost because you could easily bypass a water hole, but if you saw them you would know to look.

 

 

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Spinifex with it’s wheat colour looks great.   There are fires currently burning in the park, making it hazy but it is still a outstanding view.

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We then drove over to Python Pool.  The morning was moving along and it was getting quite hot and a swim would be welcome, but it was not to be.  The pool has algae bloom during the dry and we decided not to swim – as advised.  There were a lot of small fish in the pool and you could see about three different varieties.

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  A beautiful deep clear pool, pity about the algae bloom.

 

 

 

 

 

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We could see the flames from this view point.  A plane came over while we were on the McKenzie Spring walk, probably checking out the multiple fire situation.  They had a major fire here in September 2012.

 

 

 

 

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This car looks like it’s been here awhile.

23-24-25 September – Karijini National Park – Warm, Fine Sunny Clear Skies

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We left our camp around 9am and headed down the hill.  You can see the caravans (white specs) in the distance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

23-25 Kariniji NP 006We were camped on the top of the first hill and walked up to the top of the second.  There is a gorge either side of the ridge between the two hills. 

 

 

 

 

The drive to Karijini was just under an hour.  We had a shortcut planned – it was shown on our memory map, but it no longer existed, so we had to take the tar all the way.

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The visitor centre is very modern made out of steel and in the shape of a goanna.  We were given a warm welcome, this park is run by the traditional owners and you can see lots of improvements happening.  Channel Nine (Perth) were filming a documentary about the park during our visit.  The mission statement for the park is about the past and the future.  They were finishing the new toilet facilities around the camp ground and new trail infrastructure.  The camp grounds have hosts who manage the camping fees during the busy periods.  The toilets were exceptionally clean which was nice.  Water is provided at a tank area as well as rubbish disposal.

Karijini was known as the Hamersley Range National Park, but I like the traditional name more.  It is nothing short of spectacular. 

On our first afternoon, we did the ridge top walk.  When you reach the look out over to Circular Pools, it takes your breath away to see this gorgeous pool with maidenhair fern a couple of hundred feet below you with people the size of ants.  It has a wet season waterfall, but is fed by a spring.  The water dripping onto the shelves above the pool is very warm.  The pool water is very cold.  No matter what they pretend, they all scream like little girls, or swim very very fast in tiny strokes trying to get their breath back. You can pretend that you’re tough but body language gives you away. 

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The walk is along the top of the gorge from the Circular Pool above to the three ways lookout to the Fortescue Falls.  It is a very long way to the bottom.

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This is a view of the three way where the Circular Pool gorge joins with the gorge from Fortescue Falls.

 

 

 

 

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The colours and rock formations are exceptional. Another view down the Gorge from Fortescue Falls end.

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These falls would be about 15-20 metres high.  The rocks are like giant lego blocks.

 

 

 

 

Day 2 …   We then did the walk down to Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool.  To access the bottom of the gorge it is straight down and up.  The rock which splits naturally into slate looking steps.

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From Fortescue Falls there is a 300m walk to the Fern Pool which is a deep swimming hole further up. It has a timber deck and pool ladder for easy access.

The water is crystal clear and of course very very cold.

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Yes, these are the outback colours, totally amazing.

 

 

 

 

Today Day 3 - 25th, we got up early and headed back to Fortescue Falls to do the Dales Gorge walk.  We walked from Fortescue to Circular Pool and then back to the three way where the steps head back up to the top.

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 We picked our way across the natural weir to the swimming hole and headed down the Dales Gorge for our walk. 

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I don’t know how some of the big people have got through this gap in the track.

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What a walk way, all I could think of, was how could I get this rock back to our place :)  The colours and textures were amazing. Above (right) a massive amount of rock was being held up by this little column.  The rock above has cracked from the side, so it was a scurry around place.

There are some massive and I mean massive paperbark trees in the gorge.  Which is a surprise which means that they are exceptionally old and given the right conditions grow far bigger than you would ever realize. Another tree that we have seen like this are Bottle Brush Trees growing like gum trees just inland and south of Gladstone. There is something weird about seeing a paperbark growing the same size as a large gum tree.

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It was easy walking, it would only be the up and down from the top that would deter most.

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No wonder this is a popular park and everyone we spoke to said how spectacular it was.

 

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A little flowering plant growing amongst the maiden hair.

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Circular pool from the bottom.  Just after leaving Circular Pool, I rolled my ankle on a step with a little drop off hidden by leaves)  (The old hidden leaf trick)  I was hanging on, as I stepped and managed to stop the worst of it.  It was okay to walk on.  Unfortunately I still had to walk a fair way along the gorge bottom, back to the three way, then do the climb up, then from the top the walk back to camp. Probably one km on a sore ankle.  My ankle didn’t sign up for that, so has protested and refuses to co-operate any further.  Resting it this afternoon and hoping that I will be able to walk on it tomorrow. As they say, it could have been worse.

Definitely lots to photograph.  Around at Circular Pool there is ochre and another bright blue stone which obviously everyone has been grinding and putting their hand prints on the gorge wall.  The Circular pool was a men’s site.