Wednesday 25th February 2015 – Lake Gairdner to Stuart Highway

Fine Clear Sunny – warm most of the day until we reached the Stuart Highway around lunch time, it then seemed to be hotter.  We travelled 391 kms today. 

We left camp early and we had several proposed spots to camp – none were suitable, so we have our own camp now.  Down a track off the Stuart Highway about 120 kms north of Port Augusta.

 We travelled a km or so down the track and turned off and have a hidden  shady spot.  There are a lot of free camps along the road, but right next to the highway and they have no shade at all.


Trip 25 Feb










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Check out the brakes!

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We didn’t get far this morning before stopping.  As we left Yardea Station and entered Moonaree Station, this old wagon was at the grid entrance.

As you enter properties there is generally a sign and grid –  the brakes are a big hunk of wood.  This whole section had eyelet hooks which would have been had wire through to the front to activate the braking system.


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Our road today was as smooth as the M1.



We travelled through a wide range of country side as well.  At some stages it looked just like Sturt’s Stony Desert, we had cream sand as well as the red sand.

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More salt lakes – this is Lake Everhard.  We also passed Lake Harris and saw more of Lake Gairdiner.  We saw Lake Gairdiner from all sides.  It is one of the largest salt lakes in Australia.








At Kingoonya we crossed the Trans Australia Railway line – the line between Perth and Adelaide.  It was lucky that we took the opportunity for Glen to play chicken as even though we crossed the line a few more times today, they were not level crossings.

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We turned east towards Glendambo and the Stuart Highway.
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We bypassed camp 1 – Lake Hart Lookout and kept heading south to Pimba which is on the Stuart Highway and Woomera is 7 kms east.

We bypassed camp 2 – at Pimba and headed into Woomera.

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There is a nice display of several rockets.

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The information centre and history centre is open 7 days BUT – we close early in summer – again another little town that takes you hours to get there and they close the information centre just after lunch….  We bypassed camp 3 – Woomera Caravan Park.

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I think we saw three people in the town.  It is military built and looks it – everything is just practical – add some snow and you could be in Russia.  At its’ height in the sixties it would have been a hive of activity and a thriving place, but now it has slowly died.

A quick tour of Woomera for you

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Even though we only did a short distance travelling south on the Stuart Highway, it certainly was scenic and a nice road.

Tuesday 24th February – Gawler Ranges NP to Lake Gairdner NP

Warm – low 30’s – sunny – cool breezes.   31C – We travelled 101 kms – slowly – too many things to stop and look at.

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We read the sign, yes we have everything listed plus more.  We have three types of mapping – live tracking with two computer maps on the Ipad– best investment we ever made – using Bad Elf GPS module  connected to satellites without the need of internet.  This tells us immediately if we are on a wrong track.  A lot of people die out here from being confused by station tracks.  We also have a separate hand held GPS unit old fashioned compass and paper maps and of course our panic button (EPIRB).

Map - 24 February
Our trip today, once we left the National Park was all in Yardea Station.  We took the lesser road to cut off some mileage and there were several tracks going every where.  We were able to distinguish our track from the rest because live tracking, we switched to memory maps which has a lot more detail of tracks unlike mudmaps (left). 












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I noticed that they moved the incorrect “s” from Mt Ive Station directions on the first sign – notice how short the second correctly spelled sign is, maybe some one from signage being clever.


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We saw plenty of very large wombat holes.  Our first flock of sheep – they all ran away as we approached except this one.

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Lovely stone work on the pump shed at Ti Tree Well.

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The windmill was spinning fast and there was a lot of water in the old stone tank and watering troughs for the sheep who were returning satisfied that we were no threat nor there to crutch them.

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The red rocks turn to a hazy purple when in the distance.

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This was the view from Sisters Dam – both the very large dams were empty – we noticed that the windmill was disconnected from pumping.

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We are still on Yardea Station – only the actual lakes are National Parks – however there is camping here and we had decided if it was shade, we would do a camp here.
 Lovely spot and this will give us the opportunity to photograph Lake Gairdner late afternoon and possibly early tomorrow.

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Shade and a cool lake breeze – what more could you want.  -  Lake Gairdner is a salt lake and is blindingly white.

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We will hike up the hill later this evening for the view of the lake.

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We left the car at camp and walked out to the turn around area, then up the park track to the top of the high ridge.

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The lake looks pink this time of day (around 7pm) because of the setting sun.  These three photos are basically looking from left to right.  There were islands in the lake.  I tried several panorama but could not hold the camera still because of the wind.  The bush flies were out in large numbers as well, so the wind was welcomed to keep them at bay.  I just could not capture the essence of the lake.



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I guess this is the one I like the best after all of that, showing the flow marks.  We were up very high and those rocks at the lake edge would be a few metres high.  On the walk back we did see some finches – which I haven’t seen before and will have a try at finding them in my bird book.

Monday 23rd February 2015 – Gawler Ranges – South Australia

  Cool change overnight – morning temp was 15C and stayed around 20C until lunch time and gradually climbed to 31C late afternoon.  Lots of cool breezes.  Fine with clouds.

Day Trip 23 Feb Gawler Ranges
We left camp at 8.20am and drove the loop section anti-clockwise, after Organ Pipes we headed south to Minnipa and then back up to resume the rest of the circuit. We were going to take the trailer out of the top section of the loop, but the road across to Minnipa/Yardea Rd is slow going, so we will use the much better (faster) road out of the south
















We drove north anti-clockwise on the loop – just as well as it turns into a one way track circuit.
Our first stop was Pondanna Outstation.  This was a thriving farm in the early 1900’s.  They grew a lot of hay to feed their stock plus supply to the other stations, a few crop failures and the motor replacing the horse, saw the farm decline by the 1930’s.

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This is the layout of the homestead area and a photo of the farm house in 2000.  It has been restored by the friends of Gawler and took 6 years.

23 Feb 2015 - Gawler Range NP 003This is how it is today.  It is hard to imagine how much it has changed from when it was producing acres of fruit & vegetables and hay.  There is a newly planted orange tree in the front yard and it is thriving without attention.  The farm house can be rented for short stays.  Mind you this is in the middle of no where and the accommodation is very very basic – yet they want 2 night minimum stay and at $90 per night.  I don’t know how that is working out for them, because most people on this track are totally self sufficient  and would only consider staying there as a novelty but not at those rates. 



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There were heaps of story boards on the history of the farm house.  There was also a display of equipment that was used at the time.

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There is underground water here and this was once a lush oasis.  It is now a farm of kangaroos and prickles.  Yes those are prickles in the foreground.

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After we left Pondanna, we came down into a valley and there was a sign board about the sand dunes.  We couldn’t really see what they were talking about from the board, but as we drove through the valley we could the see the sand dunes.  The dunes were there 4000 years ago and were blown up and over the ranges.  The dunes do not move much these days because vegetation is halting them.



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This is the start of the walk to the Organ Pipes.  We walked there and up to the top of the waterfall.  You can see it in the “V” of the horizon.








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What I could do with those rocks in landscaping.  It’s a pity they are so heavy :(
Above (left) all of those rocks sticking out in different levels reminded me of Superman’s hide out at the north pole or was it the south pole – okay you need imagination, but lets just call this the west pole.

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Looking down the valley (Right) – our car is in the car park and you could see it as plain as day and now it is impossible to see in the photo. ?The car park is where the hill on the right meets the flat greenery.
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The photo above is looking down the falls and you can’t visualize the height, the photo on the left is looking back up to the top.  It was easy walking as all the broken blocks are like steps.  It would be fantastic to see in a small flow.









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Verdict:  They are not the biggest that we have seen or the most exact in shape, but certainly the sheer volume is spectacular.

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Another track buddy who was happy to pose.  This one is very similar to the one I  photographed yesterday – the markings vary but they may from individual to individual.








We then diverged on our way to Minnipa to Pildappa Granite Rocks.  This is a large granite formation rising out of the plains.  A bit of a minature cross between Uluru and Wave Rock.  It immediately reminded us of the “Haystacks” but the explanation on the notice board was nothing like how Haystacks were formed.  So glad we went there because when we spotted them it was a bit of a “wow” moment.


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Above right – on top of the rock -  Glen in the distance.

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I had trouble getting footing on the steep incline to go up and kept slipping down.  I looked at the soles of my walking shoes and they are now smooth – this will be the second pair that I have worn out – so some new ones when we get to Adelaide.  There was a nice shady picnic area, so we stopped for lunch.  Next stop was Minnipa to refuel and then head back to complete the rest of the loop.

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I didn’t notice, but Glen pointed it out.  They have incorporated a kangaroo using the R of Gawler and the R of Ranges.  After refuelling, we did a quick message check on the internet and uploaded a couple of my blogs.  This was another very cool and shady picnic area.

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Some very nice stonework, from write ups it does fill in spring – the area only receives 300 mm a year.  Apparently in spring there are yellow wildflowers everywhere.  I have seen quite a few dried paper daisies around.  Being here at the driest time of year makes the park look more arid than it would be in other seasons.  It would be good to see it in spring but with that would be rain and we can see how quickly the tracks turn ugly in the wet.  We are constantly driving around deep ruts.




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This is a different lizard – It has grey legs and vivid orange around the ear openings and black and white on the back.  Similar size and face. 















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The son-in-law of the original station owner lived in this 4 room cottage – 2 bedrooms with his wife and 11 children.

The new homestead is now occupied by park headquarters.

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Photos from inside the cottage.
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It is a bit like time has stood still.

We then headed up to Policeman’s Point.  There was no sign of any buildings but it may have been very basic as they were only stationed there for around 6 years in the mid 1800’s.

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The location would have been for the water source.  There was a natural dam at the base of the slip falls.

Harsh life – on the way we passed a grave containing two small children and near the entrance to the walk to Policeman’s Point another grave of a 17 year old from the late 1800’s.

That completed our check off on the loop tour and we headed back to camp.  We had locked up the trailer and it was pleasing to see it was only 31c inside even being closed up for the day.  Tomorrow, we pack and head north on our way to Woomera.  We will be passing areas that Len Beadell would have travelled when he was surveying for the rocket range and opening up inland Australia after the war.

Finally caught our free loading mouse.  We noticed a mouse had jumped on board at Memory Cove, but we couldn’t empty the trailer out at Port Lincoln because of the slope near the trailer door, so we waited until we got to Gawler Ranges.  The first day we emptied the trailer and found it but it got into the washing machine – of course the last thing in the trailer.  We put the washing machine outside the trailer but sneaky mouse was only coming out at night and returning to its new home the washing machine.  We were hesitant to put the washing machine back in not knowing for sure that the mouse wasn’t in it.  So last night I set a mouse trap and we caught it overnight.  Breakfast for the crows.